Thursday, May 9, 2013

Literary Greats

Edinburgh has a long tradition of producing great writers and poets.  From Robert Louis Stevenson, Robert Burns, and Sir Walter Scott, to JK Rowling, Alexander McCall-Smith, and Ian Rankin, the list of popular writers who have lived in, and used Edinburgh as a backdrop for their stories grows every year.

My favorite historical author is Robert Louis Stevenson.  He published a number of great works during his lifetime including Treasure Island and Kidnapped, however my favorite story of his is The Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde.  The story was based, in part, on the real life story of Deacon Brodie, a local Edinburgh resident in the late 1700s.  The story goes that Deacon Brodie was a local cabinet maker who would visit people's homes during the day to fix their locks, install cabinets, and do other security related chores, and at night, would return to those same homes and rob the residents.  He allegedly used the money he pilfered to support his second life which included two mistresses, five children, and a pretty serious gambling habit.  Deacon Brodie's story does not end well.  He was hanged for his crimes at the Tollbooth on October 1, 1788.  His story of an upstanding citizen by day and a criminal by night served as Stevenson's inspiration for the split personality of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde.  Many of Stevenson's other stories were inspired by locals or took place in Edinburgh.  Deacon Brodie serves as inspiration today for a tavern where his cabinetry store used to be.  The food is great and the atmosphere can't be beat.  

The most popular, current literary celebrity is JK Rowling, who wrote the Harry Potter books.  JK Rowling started off her career writing most of the first few books a backroom overlooking Edinburgh Castle at The Elephant House coffee house.  Alexander McCall-Smith and Ian Rankin have also visited the Elephant House so it is a great place to hang out and search for literary inspiration.  The coffee at the Elephant House is pretty good too. 

If you are a serious Literary nut, or enjoy a fun night out at a number of local pubs, I would strongly recommend a Literary Tour of Edinburgh.  While current authors frequently have evenings out in their favorite place, such as Ian Rankin who has great nights out in Edinburgh, the Edinburgh Literary Tour visits all of the historic and current literary hot spots   It's a pub tour as well so you're guaranteed to have a good time.  I've taken the tour a number of times and always learn something new.  The tour is great because it is never dull, which is why I still enjoy going, and it introduces my friends to the literary history of this city.  The tour can also be done on your own time if you want to walk the tour during the day.  

When you're visiting Edinburgh, try and spend at least a few hours learning about the great writers who have lived in this city and the stories inspired by the city.  Edinburgh is a character in itself in many of these great stories.  Edinburgh's rich literary history can be inspiring to everyone. 

Friday, May 3, 2013

The Royal Botanic Gardens

One of my favorite places to spend a sunny afternoon is at the Royal Botanic Gardens.  Located between Princess Street and the Firth of Forth, the Royal Botanic Gardens encompasses over 70 acres and is one of the largest Botanic Gardens in the world.  The majority of the Gardens are free to anyone.  The only cost is for the Glass Houses which display palm trees, orchids, and other tropical displays.

The History of the Royal Botanic Gardens Edinburgh (RGBE) dates to 1670 when it began as a physics garden near Holyrood Palace.  What started as one of the first Botanic gardens in Britain between two doctors looking to import and grow medicinal plants grew immensely over the years to now house over 14 separate gardens, restaurants, and a large, community oriented walking path through the gardens.

One of my favorite exhibits at the RGBE is the Alpine, or Rock Gardens.  This outdoor exhibit features over 5,000 species along a wandering trail through an Alpine hillside.  This garden features sub-arctic, high-mountain, pasture plants, and those typically found in shade.  Another favorite garden with visitors is the Chinese Garden.  Set in the center of the RGBE, the Chinese Hillside not only features over 16,000 local plants (the largest display outside of China) but a walk to the top also features a fantastic view of downtown Edinburgh.  What I find most interesting about the Chinese Hillside is that the plants have largely been allowed to "drift" and create their own display.  While there is a distinct border to this garden, the plants have found their own way which results in a very natural looking garden.

Monkey Puzzle Trees!
The RGBE also features a great restaurant in the middle, The Gateway, which has local favorites, tea, and other snacks.  It is a nice place to take a breather while walking through the Gardens.  Near the main entrance to the Gardens there is a shop which not only has your typical souvenirs but also has a great display about the history of the gardens and an interactive map.  One of my favorite displays are the young and old Monkey Puzzle Trees.  These trees became a favorite of mine during my first trip to Scotland when there were a few growing in the gardens of the house where I was living.  To me, the trees look so different from other Pine trees in the US that I also make a point of visiting the trees at the garden because they are such a curiosity.  Anyone with a free day, and nice weather, should spend some time in the Royal Botanic Gardens. While you might not have enough time to see every garden in the 70 acres, a wander through even a part of the gardens will be well worth your time.

For anyone who can't make it to Edinburgh, the Royal Garden Society has a great highlight Video showing off the gardens.