Greyfriar's Bobby and Kirk

One of Edinburgh's most iconic statues is that of Greyfriar's Bobby.  The statue can be found just to the South of the Royal Mile and stands in front of Greyfriar's Kirk and cemetery.



The legend of Greyfriar's Bobby starts in the middle 1800s with John Gray, a local police officer.  He was required to keep a dog with him on his nightly rounds through the Cattle Market and other unsavory parts of town.  He adopted Bobby, a Sky Terrier puppy, and Bobby became his constant companion.  John Gray died from tuberculosis in 1857 and was buried in the local cemetery attached to Greyfriar's Kirk.  Legend has it that the morning after John was buried Bobby was found sitting on top of the newly turned earth and couldn't be moved.  He kept up this Vigil, mourning his master's loss, until his own death in 1872.  Locals were so moved by Bobby's devotion that a statue was commissioned and placed in the square in 1873.  How much of the story is true is open to debate but the statue remains today as a homage to the loyalty dogs show to their families.



The Kirk, or Church, associated with Greyfriar's Bobby is one of the most interesting in Edinburgh.  The church was founded in 1561 and was originally built to replace St Giles Cathedral, which was considered full.  The cemetery attached to Greyfriars Kirk is the final resting place for some of the most influential people in Edinburgh's history and is also considered to be haunted.

The most infamous ghost is the poltergeist of Bloody George MacKenzie.  George MacKenzie was a local lawyer who spent a good portion of his career prosecuting Presbyterian Covenanters for King Charles II.  In 1679 he imprisoned over 1200 Covenanters in a field next to Greyfriars cemetary.  Many of the prisoners were shot and hundreds died of maltreatment.  His treatment of the Covenanters earned him the name "Bloody MacKenzie."  His poltergeist is said to still haunt the graveyard where his actions caused so many deaths.  Visitors report feeling cold and receiving bites, cuts, and bruises, from encounters with his ghost.  There are also reports of other spirits and the cemetery itself has a notorious reputation for actual deaths taking place in the cemetery.

I've visited the cemetery a few times, and while I can't report any "odd" occurrences, I can say that the cemetery is one of the strangest I've ever visited.  There is a skeleton on the side of the original church and many of the graves have odd symbols engraved on the tombs.  Greyfriar's Kirk is also the home of underground Edinburgh ghost tours, which is apt.  A visit to the cemetery on a typical cloudy Edinburgh day may be enough to give anyone the willies and encourage the ghostly stories!

Calton Hill

Calton Hill is located in central Edinburgh and a walk to the top provides one of the best views of the city.  On a clear day you can see the Firth of Forth, Castle Hill, and the Fourth Railway Bridge.  A walk up the hill to admire the monuments and the spectacular view is a must for anyone visiting the city.  Calton Hill can be accessed from a number of different city walking paths or the road with parking available at the top.

One of the most iconic monuments on Calton Hill is the Acropolis, which is actually an unfinished monument. Building on the Acropolis started in 1816 and it was originally called The National Monument.  It was meant to be an exact replica of the Parthenon in Athens and a monument to those who died during the Napoleonic Wars.  Funds ran low and for many years it was known as Edinburgh's shame.  Visitors can walk up the giant steps and admire the two sides that were finished.


The View over the Firth of Forth makes the uphill walk worth your time.  Calton Hill is centrally located in Edinburgh so it gives any visitor a panoramic view of the city.  You can see Princes St, the Royal Mile, and ships navigating on the Firth of Forth.  Looking away from the water gives you a great view of Holyrood Palace, the Royal family's home when visiting Edinburgh.  Arthur's seat, the extinct volcano that towers over Edinburgh, is next door and those seeking a more adventurous walk can climb to the top.

Other monuments on Calton Hill include the upside down telescope monument to Admiral Nelson, the British Admiral who lead the British to victory during the battle of Trafalgar.  The Hill is also home to two observatories.  The Old Observatory House was built in 1792 and the City Observatory which was built in 1818.  The City Observatory is open and includes exhibits of the night sky.  Calton Hill is also a World Heritage Site and has inspired visitors for years  Calton Hill is a great place to spend the day, and if the weather cooperates, you too can be inspired by the spectacular views of this city.

Calton Hill, with Arthur's Seat in the background.

Dining Out

One of the biggest concerns my parents had when they visited Scotland was "are we going to find enough to eat?"  My parents aren't very adventurous eaters and were concerned that the food was going to be weird and different.  This concern coincides with a concern of friends about the cost of going out to eat.  I've had friends who wanted a traditional experience without paying high, touristy costs.  My favorite place to take friends and family is a restaurant near the University called Mums Great Comfort Food.

Monster Mash, now Mums Great Comfort Food, specializes in a British favorite - bangers and mash - which is traditionally fried sausage served on mashed potatoes covered in gravy.  My family loves the restaurant because the food is traditional yet recognizable, and my friends love it because it's inexpensive.  I love the fact that I can take anyone to Mums and get great, local food for a good price.  Mum's menu features different types of sausages and mashed potatoes for mix matching, and with soup included, your lunch bill will be £6.00.  They also offer more traditional mains and vegetarian menu items so you can bring anyone here.  

If you're looking for something a bit more upscale, yet not to scary for newcomers, I recommend the Garden Cafe in the Scottish National Gallery.  It has a great lunch and dinner menu and they also have many seasonal events featuring local specialties.  The Garden Cafe has the added benefit of being on the mound in the National Gallery so if you're looking for a day out you can combine a great gallery with a really good meal.  If you're a more adventurous eater there are plenty of great options.  I prefer Indian food when visiting the UK but there are so many options it gives everyone a great chance to try something new.