Literary Greats

Edinburgh has a long tradition of producing great writers and poets.  From Robert Louis Stevenson, Robert Burns, and Sir Walter Scott, to JK Rowling, Alexander McCall-Smith, and Ian Rankin, the list of popular writers who have lived in, and used Edinburgh as a backdrop for their stories grows every year.

My favorite historical author is Robert Louis Stevenson.  He published a number of great works during his lifetime including Treasure Island and Kidnapped, however my favorite story of his is The Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde.  The story was based, in part, on the real life story of Deacon Brodie, a local Edinburgh resident in the late 1700s.  The story goes that Deacon Brodie was a local cabinet maker who would visit people's homes during the day to fix their locks, install cabinets, and do other security related chores, and at night, would return to those same homes and rob the residents.  He allegedly used the money he pilfered to support his second life which included two mistresses, five children, and a pretty serious gambling habit.  Deacon Brodie's story does not end well.  He was hanged for his crimes at the Tollbooth on October 1, 1788.  His story of an upstanding citizen by day and a criminal by night served as Stevenson's inspiration for the split personality of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde.  Many of Stevenson's other stories were inspired by locals or took place in Edinburgh.  Deacon Brodie serves as inspiration today for a tavern where his cabinetry store used to be.  The food is great and the atmosphere can't be beat.  

The most popular, current literary celebrity is JK Rowling, who wrote the Harry Potter books.  JK Rowling started off her career writing most of the first few books a backroom overlooking Edinburgh Castle at The Elephant House coffee house.  Alexander McCall-Smith and Ian Rankin have also visited the Elephant House so it is a great place to hang out and search for literary inspiration.  The coffee at the Elephant House is pretty good too. 

If you are a serious Literary nut, or enjoy a fun night out at a number of local pubs, I would strongly recommend a Literary Tour of Edinburgh.  While current authors frequently have evenings out in their favorite place, such as Ian Rankin who has great nights out in Edinburgh, the Edinburgh Literary Tour visits all of the historic and current literary hot spots   It's a pub tour as well so you're guaranteed to have a good time.  I've taken the tour a number of times and always learn something new.  The tour is great because it is never dull, which is why I still enjoy going, and it introduces my friends to the literary history of this city.  The tour can also be done on your own time if you want to walk the tour during the day.  

When you're visiting Edinburgh, try and spend at least a few hours learning about the great writers who have lived in this city and the stories inspired by the city.  Edinburgh is a character in itself in many of these great stories.  Edinburgh's rich literary history can be inspiring to everyone. 

The Royal Botanic Gardens

One of my favorite places to spend a sunny afternoon is at the Royal Botanic Gardens.  Located between Princess Street and the Firth of Forth, the Royal Botanic Gardens encompasses over 70 acres and is one of the largest Botanic Gardens in the world.  The majority of the Gardens are free to anyone.  The only cost is for the Glass Houses which display palm trees, orchids, and other tropical displays.

The History of the Royal Botanic Gardens Edinburgh (RGBE) dates to 1670 when it began as a physics garden near Holyrood Palace.  What started as one of the first Botanic gardens in Britain between two doctors looking to import and grow medicinal plants grew immensely over the years to now house over 14 separate gardens, restaurants, and a large, community oriented walking path through the gardens.

One of my favorite exhibits at the RGBE is the Alpine, or Rock Gardens.  This outdoor exhibit features over 5,000 species along a wandering trail through an Alpine hillside.  This garden features sub-arctic, high-mountain, pasture plants, and those typically found in shade.  Another favorite garden with visitors is the Chinese Garden.  Set in the center of the RGBE, the Chinese Hillside not only features over 16,000 local plants (the largest display outside of China) but a walk to the top also features a fantastic view of downtown Edinburgh.  What I find most interesting about the Chinese Hillside is that the plants have largely been allowed to "drift" and create their own display.  While there is a distinct border to this garden, the plants have found their own way which results in a very natural looking garden.

Monkey Puzzle Trees!

The RGBE also features a great restaurant in the middle, The Gateway, which has local favorites, tea, and other snacks.  It is a nice place to take a breather while walking through the Gardens.  Near the main entrance to the Gardens there is a shop which not only has your typical souvenirs but also has a great display about the history of the gardens and an interactive map.  One of my favorite displays are the young and old Monkey Puzzle Trees.  These trees became a favorite of mine during my first trip to Scotland when there were a few growing in the gardens of the house where I was living.  To me, the trees look so different from other Pine trees in the US that I also make a point of visiting the trees at the garden because they are such a curiosity.  Anyone with a free day, and nice weather, should spend some time in the Royal Botanic Gardens. While you might not have enough time to see every garden in the 70 acres, a wander through even a part of the gardens will be well worth your time.

For anyone who can't make it to Edinburgh, the Royal Garden Society has a great highlight Video showing off the gardens.

Greyfriar's Bobby and Kirk

One of Edinburgh's most iconic statues is that of Greyfriar's Bobby.  The statue can be found just to the South of the Royal Mile and stands in front of Greyfriar's Kirk and cemetery.



The legend of Greyfriar's Bobby starts in the middle 1800s with John Gray, a local police officer.  He was required to keep a dog with him on his nightly rounds through the Cattle Market and other unsavory parts of town.  He adopted Bobby, a Sky Terrier puppy, and Bobby became his constant companion.  John Gray died from tuberculosis in 1857 and was buried in the local cemetery attached to Greyfriar's Kirk.  Legend has it that the morning after John was buried Bobby was found sitting on top of the newly turned earth and couldn't be moved.  He kept up this Vigil, mourning his master's loss, until his own death in 1872.  Locals were so moved by Bobby's devotion that a statue was commissioned and placed in the square in 1873.  How much of the story is true is open to debate but the statue remains today as a homage to the loyalty dogs show to their families.



The Kirk, or Church, associated with Greyfriar's Bobby is one of the most interesting in Edinburgh.  The church was founded in 1561 and was originally built to replace St Giles Cathedral, which was considered full.  The cemetery attached to Greyfriars Kirk is the final resting place for some of the most influential people in Edinburgh's history and is also considered to be haunted.

The most infamous ghost is the poltergeist of Bloody George MacKenzie.  George MacKenzie was a local lawyer who spent a good portion of his career prosecuting Presbyterian Covenanters for King Charles II.  In 1679 he imprisoned over 1200 Covenanters in a field next to Greyfriars cemetary.  Many of the prisoners were shot and hundreds died of maltreatment.  His treatment of the Covenanters earned him the name "Bloody MacKenzie."  His poltergeist is said to still haunt the graveyard where his actions caused so many deaths.  Visitors report feeling cold and receiving bites, cuts, and bruises, from encounters with his ghost.  There are also reports of other spirits and the cemetery itself has a notorious reputation for actual deaths taking place in the cemetery.

I've visited the cemetery a few times, and while I can't report any "odd" occurrences, I can say that the cemetery is one of the strangest I've ever visited.  There is a skeleton on the side of the original church and many of the graves have odd symbols engraved on the tombs.  Greyfriar's Kirk is also the home of underground Edinburgh ghost tours, which is apt.  A visit to the cemetery on a typical cloudy Edinburgh day may be enough to give anyone the willies and encourage the ghostly stories!

Calton Hill

Calton Hill is located in central Edinburgh and a walk to the top provides one of the best views of the city.  On a clear day you can see the Firth of Forth, Castle Hill, and the Fourth Railway Bridge.  A walk up the hill to admire the monuments and the spectacular view is a must for anyone visiting the city.  Calton Hill can be accessed from a number of different city walking paths or the road with parking available at the top.

One of the most iconic monuments on Calton Hill is the Acropolis, which is actually an unfinished monument. Building on the Acropolis started in 1816 and it was originally called The National Monument.  It was meant to be an exact replica of the Parthenon in Athens and a monument to those who died during the Napoleonic Wars.  Funds ran low and for many years it was known as Edinburgh's shame.  Visitors can walk up the giant steps and admire the two sides that were finished.


The View over the Firth of Forth makes the uphill walk worth your time.  Calton Hill is centrally located in Edinburgh so it gives any visitor a panoramic view of the city.  You can see Princes St, the Royal Mile, and ships navigating on the Firth of Forth.  Looking away from the water gives you a great view of Holyrood Palace, the Royal family's home when visiting Edinburgh.  Arthur's seat, the extinct volcano that towers over Edinburgh, is next door and those seeking a more adventurous walk can climb to the top.

Other monuments on Calton Hill include the upside down telescope monument to Admiral Nelson, the British Admiral who lead the British to victory during the battle of Trafalgar.  The Hill is also home to two observatories.  The Old Observatory House was built in 1792 and the City Observatory which was built in 1818.  The City Observatory is open and includes exhibits of the night sky.  Calton Hill is also a World Heritage Site and has inspired visitors for years  Calton Hill is a great place to spend the day, and if the weather cooperates, you too can be inspired by the spectacular views of this city.

Calton Hill, with Arthur's Seat in the background.

Dining Out

One of the biggest concerns my parents had when they visited Scotland was "are we going to find enough to eat?"  My parents aren't very adventurous eaters and were concerned that the food was going to be weird and different.  This concern coincides with a concern of friends about the cost of going out to eat.  I've had friends who wanted a traditional experience without paying high, touristy costs.  My favorite place to take friends and family is a restaurant near the University called Mums Great Comfort Food.

Monster Mash, now Mums Great Comfort Food, specializes in a British favorite - bangers and mash - which is traditionally fried sausage served on mashed potatoes covered in gravy.  My family loves the restaurant because the food is traditional yet recognizable, and my friends love it because it's inexpensive.  I love the fact that I can take anyone to Mums and get great, local food for a good price.  Mum's menu features different types of sausages and mashed potatoes for mix matching, and with soup included, your lunch bill will be £6.00.  They also offer more traditional mains and vegetarian menu items so you can bring anyone here.  

If you're looking for something a bit more upscale, yet not to scary for newcomers, I recommend the Garden Cafe in the Scottish National Gallery.  It has a great lunch and dinner menu and they also have many seasonal events featuring local specialties.  The Garden Cafe has the added benefit of being on the mound in the National Gallery so if you're looking for a day out you can combine a great gallery with a really good meal.  If you're a more adventurous eater there are plenty of great options.  I prefer Indian food when visiting the UK but there are so many options it gives everyone a great chance to try something new.  

St Giles Cathedral

St Giles Cathedral is in the middle of the Royal Mile and one of the most iconic buildings in all of Edinburgh.  It is also known as the High Kirk of Edinburgh, kirk being an old norse word for church.  St Giles contains the famous Thistle Chapel which I'll discuss in more detail later.  Anyone who walks down the royal mile can't help but notice and appreciate St Giles.  I've been inside numerous times and I always appreciate the history of the building and the great architecture. 

There are records of a parish church in Edinburgh by the year 854, however St Giles was formally dedicated by the bishop of St Andrews in 1243.  Throughout the years the church continued to serve the community, and although suffered damage during the 18th century was restored during the 19th century to the building we know today.  The addition of the Thistle Chapel during the early 1900s provided a place for the Order of the Thistle.  The Order of the Thistle is Scotland's great order of chivalry and is given to those who have provided distinguished service to the country.  Cities 360 provides a great indoor panoramic image of the Thistle Chapel.

The building itself is open and free to the public to tour or attend services.  The only cost is a small donation request to enter the Thistle Chapel or take indoor photographs.  The center of the room is dominated by the organ which is considered one of the finest in Europe.  There is also a quiet space in the northwest corner for prayer and meditation.  What I appreciate is that the church services are open to the public and they welcome all who attend.  Anyone visiting Edinburgh should spend some time in St Giles.  It can seem hectic and loud on the Royal Mile and St. Giles always provides a quiet and relaxing change from the bustle outside.

St Giles Cathedral from the Royal Mile

Princess Street Gardens

Princess St Gardens separate historic Old Town from New Town.  The park runs the length of downtown Edinburgh from Waverly station to Castle Hill and is where locals spend warm afternoons.

The area was originally created by draining the Nor Loch in the 1770s.  The park was intentionally left vacant to allow those living in New Town a spectacular view of Old Town; including Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile.  I really enjoy spending time in the Princess St Gardens because all of Edinburgh seems to congregate there during the warm weather.  It's the perfect place to read, get some sun, and enjoy music from the many free concerts.

The gardens are separated in the middle by the Mound, which officially connects the Old and New town.  The Mound also houses the National Gallery of Scotland and the Royal Scottish Academy.  Both of these museums feature great works of historical art along with contemporary displays. 

When the weather suddenly turns from sun to rain I strongly recommend visiting the National Gallery.  Unlike the US, galleries in the UK are, for the most part, free.  You can walk into the National Gallery and stay all afternoon, or at least until it stops raining.  I have spent a lot of time in the National Gallery and can recommend whiling away an afternoon indoors.

If the rain continues, the National Gallery also boasts a great restaurant featurning local specialties, afternoon tea, and great service.  I strongly recommend the bacon and cheese butterie, a local favorite. 




View of Old Town from Princess St Gardens.  The National Gallery is visible on the right.





 

Arrival

Flying into the Edinburgh airport and seeing the city before landing feels almost like coming home.  When I start to recognize buildings and can see the Firth of Forth from my window the excitement starts to build and overtakes the jet lag.  Once I've landed, made it through customs, and collected my luggage I'm off to my rented condo; my home away from home for the next few weeks.  Dropping my bags next to my bed I always decide that unpacking comes later.  Even if I unpack now my jet lagged mind wouldn't remember where anything ended up so it's best if I go out and reaquaint myself with the city.

I highly recommend taking a walk as soon as you've checked in to your condo, hotel, or hostel.  In any city it's best to get to know what's nearby.  Check out local restaurants and pubs that look interesting and pick up a few take away menus.  Shop at Tescos to pick up grocery staples and see what they offer.  This is also always on my first day list because having milk, orange juice, and cereal makes my condo feel more like home.  I also can't resist buying the first of many bags of cheese and onion chips.  

For me seeing what's changed in the city is also a highlight.  Some favorite stores and restaurants may be gone but new ones always take their place.  My first day always includes a walk down Princes St. and if I'm feeling ambitious, a hike up the Royal Mile.  If it's your first time in the city I'd recommend one of the two on your first day.  There will be plenty of time to explore both these areas later on in your trip. 

Taking that first walk in Edinburgh, no matter how many times I've been in the city, reminds me that this is a fantastic city.  Taking a walk clears out the jet lag, makes me forget every crowded airport and delay, and just makes me happy to be back. 

Princes St in Edinburgh, Scotland